The markets held weekly or more frequently in most Provençal towns and villages are the best places to buy fresh vegetables, fruits, cheese, charcuterie, local specialities and much more. They're also great for people-watching, getting to know the locals and sitting with a glass of wine while you ponder how to prepare all the marvelous things you just bought. The following is a selection of the most colorful and interesting. They start folding up about 12:30 p.m., so it's a good idea to arrive fairly early in the morning. For a full listing of markets in the region consult Patricia Wells ''Foodlovers' Guide to France''.

Saturday - Apt
A lovely market that winds around all the old part of town. Apt cafés are particularly lively on Saturday morning.

Sunday - Isle sur la la Sorgue
Produce market Sunday morning only. The flea market, furniture, clothes, books and maps, runs all weekend, with the biggest selection in a large building near the railway station. This is perhaps the most extensive and interesting market in the region selling everything from old copper kitchenware and quilts to enormous armoires.

Monday - Cadenet & Lauris
Small markets but fine for food shopping, Cadenet also good for kitchenware and clothing.

Tuesday - Vaison la Romaine
A fascinating town and a great market. The nearly village of Crestet is worth a side trip.

Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday - Aix en Provence
Probably the best known market in the area, combining a flea and antique market and a large produce area. A fruit and vegetable market is held in a square nearly daily.

Friday - Lourmarin
Beside the village green and on the Place above, a market specializing in high quality fresh produce cheese and dairy goods, fowl and game. An attractive flower stall all year round.

Friday - Pertuis
A large market that's improving every year, with everything from clothing and shoes to spices & fresh herbs. Parking difficult. Start early.